Es goyobod is a traditional Sundanese beverage known primarily in the Garut and Bandung regions. This drink features a blend of sweet and savory flavors with a chewy texture from the goyobod ingredients, which are cut into small pieces. In its presentation, goyobod is mixed with coconut milk, shaved ice, and sweeteners, then complemented by various ingredients such as avocado, young coconut, and white bread.
Ropiah (2016) included goyobod as one type of traditional Sundanese beverage in her study on traditional food and beverages in West Java. This classification indicates that goyobod is recognized not only as a thirst-quenching drink but also as a part of the culinary wealth that utilizes the local names and knowledge of the Sundanese people.
History
The history of Es Goyobod has several versions that have developed through stories from vendors and oral accounts from the community. One well-known tale states that the drink was introduced by Junaedi, a Sundanese vendor who sold it in the Kwitang area of Jakarta around the 1930s. The business was later passed down to his son, Usep Suryana, who brought Es Goyobod to Bandung around 1940 and set up shop in the Banceuy area.
Sadli (2014), in an article published via Kabar UPI, recounted that Usep's business thrived in Bandung, but had to relocate following the Bandung Sea of Fire incident in 1946. Usep then resumed selling Es Goyobod in the Garut Town Square (Alun-alun Garut) area. From Garut, the drink became increasingly well-known and eventually turned into a culinary staple closely associated with the region.
A similar story also appears in Manggini's (2015) writing in Kabar UPI, which discusses Es Goyobod Kliningan in Bandung. The article links the development of this drink to a family business journey and a recipe passed down through generations. Although there are differences in the accounts regarding the timeline and key figures in its early history, the story of the business moving from Jakarta and Bandung to Garut remains a vital part of the culinary memory surrounding Es Goyobod.
Thus, the history of Es Goyobod can be seen as the journey of a beverage that evolved through trading experiences, human migration, and community acceptance. Garut later became known as one of the hubs that popularized the name of Es Goyobod, while Bandung also retains its own tradition of selling and mixing goyobod.
The Uniqueness of Es Goyobod
The uniqueness of Es Goyobod lies in its main ingredient, which is a chewy dough cut into cube-like pieces. This component provides a distinct sensation when consumed together with shaved ice and coconut milk broth. The combination of chewy, soft, and crunchy textures from the complementary ingredients sets goyobod apart from other mixed ice (es campur) drinks.
Manggini (2015) explained that Es Goyobod Kliningan uses a mixture of goyobod made from sago starch, sekoteng (tapioca pearls), and avocado, served alongside coconut milk, shaved ice, sugar syrup, condensed milk, and sweet bread. Meanwhile, Sadli (2014) described the serving of goyobod with sugar broth, milk, shaved ice, and fruits. These differences in composition show that there is no single, entirely uniform recipe among all vendors.
The goyobod ingredient itself can be made using mung bean starch (tepung hunkwe) or other starch materials, depending on the recipe used. Differences in these base ingredients also affect the color, chewiness, and taste. Furthermore, the proportions of coconut milk, sweeteners, and complementary ingredients form part of each vendor's signature style.
Es Goyobod also demonstrates the relationship between traditional culinary arts and local knowledge. Its name, processing method, and serving habits are passed down through daily practices and family businesses. In this context, the existence of goyobod aligns with Ropiah's (2016) discussion, which places traditional beverages as one of the elements that help maintain the culinary existence and cultural identity of the Sundanese.
2. Equipment and Ingredients
The equipment needed to make es goyobod is relatively simple. The required tools include pots, a stove, stirrers, dough containers, knives, cutting boards, strainers, and molds or baking pans. This equipment is used to cook the goyobod dough, cool it until it hardens, cut it into small pieces, and prepare the complementary ingredients before serving.
The main ingredient for goyobod can be mung bean starch (tepung hunkwe) or other starches according to the recipe used. This ingredient is mixed with water and then cooked until it thickens. Some recipes use water infused with pandan leaves or suji leaves to provide aroma and color. Once the dough is cooked, it is poured into molds and left to cool until the texture hardens and can be sliced.
The complementary ingredients for Es Goyobod generally consist of coconut milk, brown sugar or sugar syrup, shaved ice, avocado, and young coconut. Some vendors add white bread, sekoteng, cassava tape, or condensed milk. The choice of these additional ingredients can vary based on the vendor's habits and the buyer's preferences.
Variations in the recipe are one of the fascinating aspects of Es Goyobod's development. As illustrated in Manggini's (2015) writing on Es Goyobod Kliningan, the use of sekoteng, avocado, coconut milk, syrup, and sweet bread creates a distinct serving character. Meanwhile, other vendors may use simpler ingredients or add toppings according to their respective family recipes.
3. Production Process
The preparation of es goyobod begins with preparing the mixture for the main ingredient. Mung bean starch or other starch materials are mixed with water, then cooked while being constantly stirred until thick. Stirring must be done evenly so that the dough does not clump and yields the desired texture. If used, pandan or suji leaf water can be added to provide aroma and color.
Once the dough is cooked, it is poured into a baking pan or mold. The dough is then left to cool until it hardens and attains a chewy texture. After that, the goyobod is cut into small pieces according to the desired size. This stage determines the shape of the main ingredient, which will become the signature feature of the drink when served.
The next step is to prepare the sweetener and complementary ingredients. Brown sugar can be cooked with water until it dissolves into a syrup, while the coconut milk is prepared separately. The avocado is scooped out, the young coconut is shredded, and other additional ingredients are prepared as needed. Shaved ice is made just before serving so that the drink remains cold.
This process reflects the general overview of making Es Goyobod. In practice, each vendor may have different measurements, ingredient choices, and processing techniques. These variations can affect the chewiness of the goyobod, the thickness of the broth, and the balance between sweet and savory flavors. Family recipes or business habits passed down from previous generations can also become a part of each vendor's identity.
4. Serving
Es Goyobod is served in a glass or bowl by placing the pieces of goyobod as the primary ingredient. These pieces are then combined with avocado, young coconut, and other complementary ingredients according to the vendor's recipe. Coconut milk and sugar syrup are added to form a blend of savory and sweet flavors, and then shaved ice is placed on top to make the drink feel cold and refreshing.
In some servings, white bread or sweet bread is added as a complement. Condensed milk can also be used to enhance the sweetness and provide a richer texture to the broth. On the other hand, vendors who use a simpler recipe may focus on goyobod, coconut milk, sugar, and ice as the core elements.
Manggini (2015) showed that Es Goyobod Kliningan has a recipe that combines chewy ingredients, fruit, coconut milk, sweeteners, and bread. This composition demonstrates that serving is not just the final stage in making the beverage, but also a part of the flavor identity recognized by customers. Each vendor can maintain a specific recipe so that buyers have a reason to return.