Angeun Lada of Banten: Traditional Cuisine in the Perspective of History, Culture, and Local Identity

Angeun Lada is one of the traditional culinary dishes of Banten Province that holds an important position in the social and cultural life of the local community. This dish is widely known as a spicy soup-based food made primarily from meat (commonly beef or goat) cooked with a variety of local spices. From the perspective of food anthropology, Angeun Lada should not be understood merely as a means of fulfilling biological needs, but also as an expression of cultural identity and a symbol of social relations within Bantenese society. Traditional foods often function as media through which values, norms, and social structures of a community are represented (Koentjaraningrat, 2009).

Linguistically, the term angeun in the Bantenese Sundanese language refers to soup-based dishes or curries, while lada means spicy. This naming directly reflects the dish’s defining characteristic, namely its rich broth dominated by a strong spicy flavor. Spiciness in Angeun Lada is not simply a matter of taste preference, but is also closely related to the geographical and climatic conditions of Banten. In agrarian and coastal societies, spicy food is traditionally believed to warm the body and enhance stamina, particularly for individuals engaged in physically demanding labor (Winarno, 2014).

The historical roots of Angeun Lada cannot be separated from Banten’s strategic position as a coastal region that, since the sixteenth century, developed into an important international trading port and a center for the spread of Islam in the Indonesian archipelago. Guillot (2008) notes that the Sultanate of Banten maintained extensive trade networks with Arab, Indian, Persian, and other Southeast Asian regions. Such intense cross-cultural interactions significantly influenced many aspects of Bantenese life, including belief systems, language, arts, and culinary traditions. In this context, Angeun Lada can be understood as a product of cultural acculturation between local culinary practices and foreign spice-based cooking traditions.

In the oral traditions of Bantenese society, Angeun Lada is often associated with dishes served during important communal events, such as Islamic religious celebrations, village rituals, family feasts, and other ceremonial occasions. Its presence in sacred and communal contexts demonstrates that food serves symbolic functions beyond everyday consumption. Lubis (2014) explains that in Bantenese culture, the presentation of specific foods during ritual events functions as a symbol of respect, social solidarity, and gratitude toward God.

The cultural values embodied in Angeun Lada are also reflected in the way it is prepared, which is often done collectively. During large social events, the cooking process involves multiple community members working together in a spirit of mutual cooperation (gotong royong). This activity is not merely intended to produce food, but also serves as a space for social interaction where culinary knowledge, cooking techniques, and cultural meanings are transmitted orally from older generations to younger ones (Suryani, 2016).

From the perspective of symbolic anthropology, Angeun Lada can be interpreted as a representation of simplicity and perseverance, values that characterize Bantenese society. Although the ingredients are relatively simple and locally sourced, the cooking process requires time and patience. The meat must be simmered for a long period to achieve tenderness and allow the spices to fully infuse the broth. This process reflects a worldview that values diligence and respect for gradual processes, principles that are also deeply embedded in traditional social life (Koentjaraningrat, 2009).

The main ingredient of Angeun Lada is meat, typically beef or goat. Goat meat is particularly common due to its availability and robust flavor, which pairs well with strong spices. In addition to meat, offal such as tripe, lungs, or liver is often included to enhance the dish’s flavor and texture. The use of offal reflects the principle of utilizing food resources holistically, a form of local wisdom rooted in traditional practices of sustainable consumption (Suryani, 2016).

The spices used in Angeun Lada include red chilies and bird’s eye chilies as the primary sources of heat, along with shallots, garlic, ginger, galangal, turmeric, coriander, bay leaves, and lemongrass. This combination creates a complex flavor profile while simultaneously reflecting the rich biodiversity of the Indonesian archipelago. Reid (2011) emphasizes that spices are not merely culinary ingredients, but also key elements that have shaped the economic and cultural history of Southeast Asia.

The preparation of Angeun Lada begins with cleaning and cutting the meat, followed by boiling it to produce a base broth and reduce the strong aroma commonly associated with goat meat. The first boiling water is usually discarded to achieve a cleaner taste. This technique is widely practiced in traditional Indonesian meat preparation (Winarno, 2014). The ground spices are then sautéed until fragrant to release their aromas and flavors.

The sautéed spices are subsequently added to the meat broth along with aromatic ingredients such as bay leaves and lemongrass. The dish is then simmered over low heat for an extended period until the meat becomes tender and the broth thickens. This slow-cooking technique allows the spices to penetrate deeply into the meat, resulting in a rich and layered flavor. In traditional Indonesian culinary philosophy, such methods are regarded as a form of respect for both the ingredients and the guests who will consume the dish (Winarno, 2014).

In contemporary society, Angeun Lada remains preserved as an essential element of Banten’s culinary identity. It is not only prepared in household settings, but also featured in traditional restaurants, culinary festivals, and cultural tourism promotions. Efforts to preserve traditional foods such as Angeun Lada are increasingly important in the face of globalization, which tends to homogenize tastes and consumption patterns (Lubis, 2014).

Thus, Angeun Lada should not be understood merely as a spicy soup dish. It represents the history, culture, and identity of the Bantenese people, shaped through long-term interactions between humans, nature, and tradition. The continued existence of Angeun Lada as a traditional culinary practice demonstrates that food plays a strategic role in preserving collective memory and cultural identity within a society.

Image: https://food.detik.com/info-kuliner/d-7395040/angeun-lada-kuliner-warisan-budaya-dari-banten-yang-gurih-pedas
References:
Guillot, C. (2008). Banten: History and civilization from the 10th to the 17th century. Jakarta: Kepustakaan Populer Gramedia.
Koentjaraningrat. (2009). Introduction to anthropology. Jakarta: Rineka Cipta.
Lubis, N. H. (2014). Banten in historical discourse. Serang: Banten Provincial Office of Culture.
Reid, A. (2011). Southeast Asia in the age of commerce, 1450–1680. Jakarta: Yayasan Obor Indonesia.
Suryani. (2016). Traditional cuisine as Banten’s cultural identity. Journal of History and Culture, 10(2), 130–145.
Winarno, F. G. (2014). Traditional Indonesian cuisine. Jakarta: Gramedia Pustaka Utama.